Shanghai Experience by Kate Rutherford
Like any new expatriate, I felt a mixture of euphoria and trepidation when I arrived in Shanghai's Pudong airport at the start of my two month secondment to China.
Heeding the advice of guidebooks, friends and colleagues, I brought with me a stack of dual language business cards in English and Chinese, a couple of bottles of Australian red, and a pile of books and magazines for those nights at home in my apartment when it was just me, the National Geographic channel and the singing soldiers and nurses on Chinese TV.
I work as a junior lawyer, and my secondment to the Shanghai office of an Australian law firm involved working on a range of matters for Australian and international clients involved in commercial projects in China. My work included assisting Australian companies setting up new joint venture projects, restructuring existing businesses, and dealing with Chinese government authorities.
Although less than five years had elapsed since my first visit to Shanghai as a student, I found almost everything had changed. The polluted skies had cleared up considerably since the factories were shifted away from the city (although the surrounding countryside has suffered the consequences). Futuristic skyscrapers have sprung up throughout Shanghai and the pace of
construction continues rapidly. It's not hard to imagine that Shanghai may supersede Hong Kong before long, and, given another couple of decades, match New York as a truly cosmopolitan metropolis.
But for the present, a number of characteristics make living in China a challenging and unique experience for expatriates. I was soon reminded, for instance, that the powerful hand of the State continues to exert control over the lives of everyone - even the most insignificant foreign
visitor like myself.
Within 24 hours of my arrival in China, I had to register as a 'temporary resident' at the local Public Security Bureau (police station). While I didn't mind doing this myself, I didn't realise that even friends who were staying with me for a few days had to be registered with the local police as temporary residents. However, with the door staff in my apartment building reporting my unregistered visitors to the police, an officer, dressed in military green, soon dropped by my apartment to check my friends' passports and visas. Despite the language difficulties, his
warning was clear: the State must know where foreigners are at all times, as this way foreigners can be protected. He alluded to the waves of anti-Westerner sentiment that occurred after the US bombing of the Chinese embassy in Belgrade a couple of years ago, although I didn't hear of any attacks on foreigners during that time.
Having to register all my visitors - family and friends - over the course of my stay in Shanghai was an inconvenient and bureaucratic procedure, but I must admit I rarely feel as consistently safe in the streets of urban Australia as I do in China.
The chore of food shopping proved to be another challenge. Shanghai has embraced the giant shopping mall concept and I invariably found my local supermarket, a Chinese-French joint venture, packed with families enjoying an outing. A simple expedition to stock up on milk, yoghurt and fruit was often a daunting experience as I tried to elbow through crowds in the aisles. However, my local market was also a great place to buy excellent fresh fruit, vegetables and animal products (usually live). As my confidence with the language improved, so did my bargaining skills.
When I needed to replenish my supply of red wine and coffee, I discovered that Glenmore's Deli was the ultimate place in Shanghai to stock up on fresh Australian produce and wines. The deli also organises delivery via its online ordering service and is undoubtedly a godsend for xpatriates throughout China craving delicacies from home such as sundried tomatoes, tasty cheese and Vegemite.
I ended my stay in China with a trip to the remote province of Yunnan. Green and mountainous, Yunnan is a completely different world compared to bustling Shanghai. While the peace and quiet of Yunnan gave me a much needed break, I also realised it's the constant buzz about Shanghai that makes it the most dynamic city in China. In spite of the challenges I experienced living there, I'd recommend anybody with the chance to go see Shanghai now - because in another five years it will have reinvented itself all over again.
[ Back to Top ]
<< Back to Pack Yack
|
